Esxence, The scent of excellence

The second edition of Esxence - The Scent of Excellence was held 25th to 28th March 2010 at La Permanente Milano recorded a staggering increase of 54% of brands , a total of 133 exhibiting brands and an influx of 4.036 visitors against the little less than 2.500 last year.

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With determination Esxence pursues the objective of giving visibility to excellence, presenting the requisites of quality and coherence, which knows how to manifest great respect for the Art of Perfumery and its creativity. In addition, it is committed to welcoming other expressive forms of quality in fields such as, Home Fragrance, Toiletries, Cosmetics and Make-Up, which have creative and distributive affinities with Niche Signature Perfumery.

Esxence offers up the proposition of becoming known over time, as an international priority point of reference, for all of the brands who present themselves for the quality of their offerings and their marketing choices, and their distinctive distribution of Niche Signature Perfumery.

So as to realise an exhibition which represents a gathering of the most particular offerings in the sector, also capable of giving opportunities to new creative realities that aspire to entrance in this field, the following criteria have been defined. Each brand that aspires to access to Esxence as an exhibitor must comply with these parameters represented by the criteria.

The valuations will take place in two phases:

Phase 1 Qualitative-Artistic Analysis

The brands, whose applications for admission will be considered for admission by the Technical Committee, must have, at least, along general lines, a profile;and that corresponds to the following:

• The image and the philosophy of the brand are based upon a credible and documented history, which translates into products and compositions that express quality and artistic characteristics as well as those of uniqueness coherent with a declared affiliation with Niche Signature Perfumery.
• The creations should display a aesthetic-stylistic coherence allowing each and every individual product to be recognised as belonging to the brand's total graphic design scheme.
• The brand offers creations of high added artistic, compositional, qualitative and stylistic value, destined, due precisely to its unique characteristics, for assisted sales and not self-service.
• The brand's offerings are directed toward consumers seeking creations of great originality, character and .artistic value.

Phase 2 Distribution Analysis Profile

If the profile is consistent with the description found above, distribution features will be taken into consideration so as to verify if these are coherent with the following criteria:

• The brand is offered in European and Extra-European markets through an extremely selective and high quality distribution network in order to maintain its particularity and to avoid its becoming commonplace.
• Its quality and its distribution selectivity is homogeneous in each country in which the brand is offered.
• Its market share¹ is not greater than 0,2% of the overall turnover in the beauty sector in the individual countries in which it is found.
• It is not usually present in the offerings of the organised chain stores, which develop a turnover greater than 3% of the cosmetic sector in the individual countries². Presence in such a channel would indicate negative evaluation values.
• It is virtually absent from the MM GDO (Major Multiples/Large Scale Retail) channels. Presence in such a channel would indicate negative evaluation values.

Information and formation of the distribution network

The concession holders must be able to offer precise information on the history, the philosophy and on the artistic production qualities of the products so as to be able to communicate these competently and correctly to the end user clients. Relative hard copy, digital and on line documentation must be provided to Esxence together with the samples.

Spotlight

In the event that the Brand has been recently introduced onto the market and/or does not yet have a consistent presence and/or has not yet defined an international distribution strategy, it will be taken into consideration exclusively as a Spotlight, brand clearly highlighting its premier position.

PLEASE NOTE: The Spotlight brands will be clearly identified inside of the exhibition.

Selection procedure for the definitive list of exhibitor brands

The procedure anticipates the following stages:

1. A list of all of the brands that have applied for admission to Esxence is gathered.
2. The Organising Committee will work to accurately screen all of the brands that make up the list.
3. From this analysis the brands will be divided into three categories:
   1. Brands admitted to Esxence
   2. Brands not admitted to Esxence
   3. Spotlight
4. At the end of this division process the list derived will be transmitted to the Technical Committee which will have the duty of expressing itself with regard to its acceptance or to its rejection of the Organising Committee's decision relative to each brand.
5. The consultative analysis of the Technical Committee will then be taken up again by the Organising Committee which will award the final approval for the definitive list, which will then, in the end, be made public.
6. The applications for participation that are presented again because they were incomplete or insufficient and any eventual new candidacies presented after the initial term deadline of the same, will be analysed according to a similar procedure and, if possible, the definitive list will be updated with the eventual new entries.

Organising Committee

Duties

The organising Committee exercises the functions relative to the ideation, planning and realisation of Esxence, with the assistance of the organisational team.

It has the responsibility of the management of the following activities:

1. Criteria Definitions: defines and proclaims the Criteria that are followed for the selection of the brands that will be admitted as exhibitors at the Esxence Exhibition. So as to implement the Criteria over time, taking into account the evolving reality of the sector, the Organising Committee will coordinate a series of meetings and encounters on this theme with the representatives of the brands. These proceedings, composed of free critical expression and opinion collection are held to be essential in order to harmonise the Criteria, based on suggestions and stimuli considered of importance for an improved definition of the sector involved, to which the exhibition will be directed.
2. Constitution of the Technical Committee: with the first definition of the Criteria, Esxence completes an important step toward its main objective: to become an authoritative international appointment dedicated to all of the brands and distributors of Niche Signature Perfumery. For a more appropriate application of the same, the Organising Committee will make use of the consultancy of a Technical Committee. For the 2010 Edition it will be the same Organising Committee to identify and recruit the components of this technical team. Afterwards this will be communicated to those who are professionally involved in the sector, who through specific methods may become candidates for this consultancy body for future editions (see Constitution of the Technical Committee).
3. Propose the provisional and definitive list of exhibitor brands: having in front of them, the forwarded applications from the brands who manifest their intention to participate in Esxence, the Organising Committee will take it upon themselves to form a provisional list, made up of all of the brands that applied for permission to participate, including the judgements (admitted, not admitted, Spotlight) drawn up by the same committee. Once defined, the provisional list will be forwarded to the Technical Committee, which will express its opinion, applying or modifying the judgements expressed by the Organising Committee, which, having taken into consideration the opinions expressed, will draw up the first definitive list.
4. Constructive contrast: once the approved exhibitor list has been published, the Organising Committee will make itself available, before the edition of Esxence, for a meeting with the brands excluded, so as to highlight the critical points that brought about their exclusion. This will be the opportunity in which suggestions may be put forward, useful for aiding the brands in question to comply with the presentation requirements for documentation and selection criteria so as to be able to, eventually, apply for later editions.
5. Ideate and manage the activities and initiatives aimed at the public visiting the exhibition

Composition of the Promotional Committee

Maurizio Cavezzali
Celso Fadelli
Silvio Levi
Luigi Michielon
Federico Ramponi
Paola Saracini

Technical Committee

Duties

The members of this team will have the duty of expressing a judgement on the provisional list, which gathers all of those brands that may, based on a preliminary judgement expressed by the Promotional Committee, either gain access or not to the exhibition. In particular they will have to express themselves on three categories:

1. Brands admitted to Esxence
2. Brands not admitted to Esxence
3. Spotlight

it is the option of the Technical Committee to suggest that the Organising Committee review its initial judgement on the brands admitted and not admitted or accepted as Spotlight.
Subsequently, the Organising Committee will analyse the suggestions forwarded and will draw up the first definitive list which will be made public on the site www.esxence.com and will become effective against repêchage or new candidacies received after the first term deadline for presentation of the applications.

Composition of the Technical Committee

The members will be Italian and European distributors and merchants and in the future also non-European, chosen by the Organising Committee. 8 candidates, will be selected in the attempt to form a representative panel capable of effectively expressing itself concerning the provisional list, on the brands admitted to the exhibition and those not, transmitted to them by the Organising Committee. The role of President of the Technical Committee will be fulfilled in rotation and with an annual term in office, of one of the members of the Organising Committee.

Each component selected who will then confirm his or her availability to take part in the Technical Committee, will be asked to express his or her opinion on line. In fact, he or she will receive by email an ID and a password with which a reserved section of the website www.esxence.com may be accessed where the provisional list may be viewed. There will be a limited period of time in which an opinion may be expressed regarding the pre-decision taken on each brand by the Promotional Committee.

Each member will have free access to the documentation provided by the brands, in a digital format, but may also, if he or she wishes, view the physical samples received from the brands and made available at the premises of ICE, the event organising firm in Milan.

The list of the candidates from among whom the members of the Technical Committee will be selected will be made public but the names of the members who will be awarded membership will not.

For each appointment to the Technical Committee, at least one substitute member will be identified who will substitute the acting member with immediate effect in the event of the resignation or the lapse of the appointment of the latter for not having fulfilled, within the term agreed to and defined in the letter of appointment, the expression of the opinion requested.

Beginning with the 2010 edition, when the candidature proposal system on the part of the operators in the sector is activated, the candidatures will be renewed every two years.

Composition of the 2010 Edition Technical Committee

• One representative of the Organising Committee with the role of President.
• Four experts from the Italian sector chosen by the Organising Committee.
• Four experts from the foreign sector (where possible, preferably from different nations) chosen by the Organising Committee.

Order of Events

Below the order of events is found¹:

1. Delivery of the requests to participate in Esxence by the brands by 20 November
2. Drawing up of the provisional list (brands admitted, not admitted and admitted as Spotlight) on the part of the Organising Committee by 30 November
3. Results of the analysis of the provisional list by the Technical Committee by 20 December
4. Publication of the definitive list of exhibitor brands by10 January
5. Deadline for the publication of the review of the definitive list: 30 January.

2010 Edition

During Esxence 2010 a meeting among the exhibitors and the distributors present will be organised in which:

1. The criteria and their application procedure will be presented.
2. The Organising Committee members, their roles and their responsibilities will be presented.
3. The composition, the roles and the duties of the Technical Committee will be presented and in that occasion its commission will be assigned. Simultaneously the methods for the presentation of the new candidatures for each role in the Technical Committee will be communicated. The selection, the verification and the availability to accept the assignment and the appointments will be performed subsequently by the Organising Committee with an extraction method. The future induction of the new Technical Committee will be communicated on the website www.esxence.com.

 

For the establishment of the Technical Board, 8 names (whose identity will be confidential) will be chosen among of the Group of Experts

Distributors
Mr. Karl Heinz Bergmann	Noblesse Luxury Goods-Germania	Germany
Mrs. Esmeralda De Fouw	Beauty Must Haves	Holland
Mr. Gianni Di Liello	Pantheon 96	Italy
Mr. Carlo Facchetti	NIC	Italy
Mr. Roberto Drago	Kaon	Italy
Mr. Chris Hakwsley	Orange Square	England
Mr. Frank Koehler	Aroma Company	Germany
Mrs. Joanna Missala	Perfumeria Quality Missala sp.j.	Poland
Mr. Massimo Scalella	Mansfield	Italy
Mr. Jan Willem Wedemeijer	Beauty&Glamour	Holland
Mr. Guido Wetter	Il Profumo	Italy

Retailers
Mr. David Albrecht	Albrecht Pafumerie seit 1732	Germany
Mr. Antonio Alessandria	Profumeria Boudoir 36	Italy
Mr. Raymond Bianchi	Theodora Parfumerie - Sonray Sar	Switzerland
Mrs. Virginia Borsboom	Celeste Perfumery	Holland
Mrs. Madeleine Florescu	Madison	Romania
Mrs. Ornella Gambarini	Profumeria Gambarini	Italy
Mrs. Ines Ganz	Ludwig Beck	Germany
Mrs. Claire Hawskley	Les Senteurs	England
Mr. Marco Hengartner	Hyazinth Parfumerie	Switzerland
Mr. Jon Olascoaga	Perfumeria Urbieta	Spain
Mr. Giovanni Padovan	Profumeria "Al Sacro Cuore"	Italy
Mr. Alberto Panteo	Profumeria Panteo	Italy
Mrs. Giorgia Petrini	Carlotta's Beauty Shop	Italy
Mr. Lorenzo Preattoni	Profumeria G. Preattoni	Italy
Mrs. Nicole Schafroth	Le Parfums Vienna	Austria
Mr. Enzo Tappi	Profumeria Cortesi	Italy
Mr. Damiano Terriaca	Profumeria Raffaele Terriaca	Italy
Mrs. Silvia Vanin	Profumeria Glamour	Italy
Mr. Stefano Vittorio	Profumeria Vittorio Giudice	Italy
Mrs. Tanja Dreiding Wallace	Osswald	Switzerland